January 20th, 2010

Stringing Tight Curves 5 comments

Topics:Blog, Dave, federal, Inlay, Tip, Woodworking

While working on my federal table last weekend, I set my sites on inlaying the curved string on the apron. After several attempt at trying to make the radius buy misting the string and using a soldering iron (and breaking each and every string) I gave up.   I was licked and all was lost.

At this point I was seriously wondering why in the world I didn’t just go with three rectangles on my apron instead of getting fancy and laying out curved ends.

So I stomped into the house and started digging up all my books, magazines, printed internet articles, DVDs, VHSs anything do to with inlay methods of work and found – NOTHING!

That was until I sent a distress email to Glen & Chuck asking what in the world I could be doing wrong. (After all I had bent lots of stringing using an iron before.)

Then the suggestion came to think bigger!  So with that I traded in the soldering iron for a piece of pipe and torch.  And the following is a step by step process on how I was able to make the curved inlay.

Step 1: While soaking my inlay in hot water I put a piece of pipe, about the same size of the bend I want, into a vise and heat it using a torch.

Heating Pipe

Step 2: After the pipe is heated I take a piece of string and using a piece of flashing as a backer I set the middle of what is to become my curve on the pipe.

Stringing Flashing Step 3: Using constant downward pressure I slowly pull the string around the pipe. (You will hear sizzling at this point.)

Bending String Step 4: I hold the two sides together with one hand while rubbing the back of the flashing with my other. (Think of it as trying to rub out a crease. But be careful because the flashing will be hot!)

Step 5: Release the pressure and take a look at your curve. Make sure it doesn’t have any cracks or splits.  (If it does you either did step 3 too fast or the pipe has cooled down too much.)

End Result

Step 6: Cut it length and install it.

Sting Inlayed

Once I completed this I went back through all my resources and I found at least 3 different places where this method was demonstrated.  (Why is it you can never find anything when you need it?)

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December 9th, 2009

Inlay Radius Cutter Tip no comments

Topics:Blog, Dave, federal, Inlay, Steve Latta, Tip, Tools, Woodworking

Recently I’ve been working on a new Federal Card Table for my home.  While working on it I decided to use my Lie-Nielsen radius inlay cutter (based off Steve Latta‘s design) to make my apron inlay circular vs rectangular.  (Photos of that to come)

IMG_0598

So prior to just going hog wild on my apron itself I applied a piece of veneer on my apron cutoff and started playing around with the radius cutter.  After trying the layout a couple of times I was happy with the job the cutter did but boy I didn’t like the center point hole that was left behind.

IMG_0596

After thinking a bit I overcame this by deciding to do all my layout work and mark my cross hairs in pencil on the apron.  After that I cut a few shims and marked a set of cross hairs on them and then broke out the hot glue gun to attached the shims to my apron making sure to align the cross hairs from the shim to the cross hairs on the apron.

IMG_0594

Now I have a piece of wood that will receive the center point hole that I can remove with a little heat and have zero marks left behind!

Do you have a different way that you would have (or have) attacked this type of issue?  Is so share them in the comments below.

Popularity: 15% [?]

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November 24th, 2009

Titebond Glue Tip 2 comments

Topics:Blog, Dave, Tip

When I’m gluing up a project I’m always grabbing for my 16oz Titebond glue bottle.  It’s lightweight but still holds enough glue for any glue up I’ve ever had.  (I have carpal tunnel so lightweight is always good!)

tightbond-16

Also, I’ve noticed when retailers put Titebond on sale it’s usually the 32oz bottle and I’m fine with that.  Why you ask?

Well almost always the tip of my 16oz bottle is glued shut.  It doesn’t matter if I wipe it off, chip at it or even chew the dry glue off of it. It’s ALWAYS stuck.

tightbond-32

So what I do is grab a small bowl of hot water and throw the stupid cap (from the 16oz bottle) in it just as I’m about to clue up a project.  From there I grab the cap off my 32oz bottle and screw it onto my 16oz bottle and go to work.  (They’re the same size)

Then after the clue has had a chance to soften up and off the other cap, I dry it off and put it on my 32oz bottle.

Maybe not the easiest  but I can say issue solved.

Thoughts?

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