First off, this tip is  most beneficial when you have in large sheets of sequenced veneer.  But since I did not have any in hand I pulled out this Woodcraft mini-pack to use for this demonstration.

Indexing: When I open up any pack (large or small) of sequenced veneer the first thing I do is grab a pencil and number the pieces in one of the corners.  Since the manufacture has sequenced the veneer this will help you keep the the pieces in the order that they were cut from the log.  If you intend to do any book-matching with your veneer this will help you in the layout out of that so your growth rings match more closely.  (That we’ll expand on in another posting.)

Book-matching: When I start with a simple book-matching project I like to play around and see what pattern will look best for my project.  Since most burl is brittle and I don’t want to damage the sheets flipping them over trying to find a good match I simply grab a mirror.  This way I can position it anywhere on the top piece of my veneer stack (2 pieces) without worrying about  damaging them and I’m able to visually see immediately what the resulting match will be.

Once I find a match I like I use the mirror as a guide and grab a pencil to put a couple of registration marks on the veneer.  From here I  go to registering the pieces, taping them together, and start cutting them to size to use  with the project.

Quad Book-matching: If I’m going for a really cool look on say a table top I’ll grab 2 mirrors (oh and 4 pieces of veneer) and hold them at a 90 degree angle and can see visually see what that will look like.  By doing this I’m able to move all over the piece (remember the note about large pieces of veneer) until I find the pattern that really pops!

Other Uses: Also by using two mirror you can bring the angle in (under 90 degrees) and use the same procedure to get an idea of how a radial book-match would look.

Popularity: 16% [?]

Today I received my copy of “Dovetailing Apprenticeship” in the mail.  It is one I’ve been looking forward to since Chuck told me he was putting the finishing touches on it.

So when Shannon sent the tweet about it being available I immediately went to the “Acanthus Workshop” web site & purchased a copy.  What follows is my notes/review of the DVD.

Image from Acanthus Workshops LLC

Part 1: The Intro

We start with Chuck explaining dovetails and how with practice you will become faster at making at making them.

From here he continues to explain that for a professional you want to become fast in order to complete your commission since this is how you can make your living.

He also explains how for the amateur that you want to increase your speed so you don’t get bored during your project.

Cause face it, if you get bored with the project the odds of not finishing it goes up!  (Something I have been guilty of a time or two in my life.)

During the discussion Chuck also talks about his theory of the history of the dovetail.  Using cut away pieces he explains how he thinks it derived from the wedged mortise & tennon joint.

Part 2: The Tools

From here he goes into the 9 tools  needed to make dovetails. During this Chuck walks through why he feels they are important/need and expands on what to look for in them.

That are:

1. Stable work surface (anything from a good bench to a door on 2 saw horses)
2. Vise
3. Dovetail saw (he prefers a western style but says to use what you like)
4. A modest set of chisels (he prefers Two Cherries due to the weight and thickness of them)
5. Marking gauge (any style)
6. Bevel gauge
7. Small square
8. Mallet
9. Hold-fast or clamp

Next Chuck explains the importance of using sharp chisels and goes through his 2 step method:

1. Starting by using a 10″ diameter white wheel on a grinder with a homemade jig
2. Finishing by using 1600 & 4000 whetstones

Part 3: The Triangle Marking System

Now that we have our tools ready we’re ready to start with the layout but before we start Chuck walks us though how to correctly use the triangle marking system.  He walks through how to utilize this system so you can keep your parts aligned.  This way you always know the inside/outside & tops of all your parts.

With your parts correctly marked you’re ready to address the question of “Pins of Tails” debate.  Here Chuck tells you that he prefers pins first most of the time but explains that either will work.  It’s just what makes you feel comfortable.

Part 4: The Dovetails

From here you walk through both through dovetails & 1/2 blind dovetails Chucks way.  I don’t want to go through this in detail because I don’t want to take away from the DVD.

All throughout the steps are shot zoomed in so you get a good view of how Chuck works.  The best part is Chuck included an instructional card that you can take into the shop that explains (in text & photos) both dovetail methods and triangle marking system.

My Conclusion:

Over all the DVD has alot of good informational you can utilize.   I look forward to the next one.  (Chuck if you’re reading, please make it a secret compartment DVD!)

Popularity: 22% [?]

So let me start off with this: “Have you ever had one of those days where you shouldn’t be in the shop?”

You know, one of those days where everything turns out to be a PITA?!?

Well today was MY day!

Due to our schedules at home/work it’s been a while since I’ve been able to work on the federal inlay table and I needed to finish up the inlay on the apron.

I’ve had the semicircles on the ends done since my blog entry on Stringing Tight Curves. But since then I had not finished “connecting the dots” so to speak until today.

But I should have known better. I wasn’t in the mood to do it.

And I had other junk to do:

• computer & virus updates to install
• the Olympics was on
• laundry to be done
• yadda, yadda, yadda

But I needed to get this project moving.  Either that or submit my entry to the “Worlds Longest Time To Complete A Project” contest.

So anyway, against my better judgment, I went out and turned the heaters on so the shop could warm up and then started cutting/trimming pieces of inlay to size and made a quick 45 degree jig to help cut the scarf joints so I could glue the pieces into the my apron.

All in all, I only had 6 pieces to fit and it should have taken about an hour to do (taking my sweet time in all) but NO! Everything that could go wrong did.

It didn’t matter how many times I dry fitted the pieces into my apron, no matter how well the scarf joints went together, every time I put glue into the groove trouble would show its face.

I had 4 pieces just break, one that broke once I had it in but had to dig out with dental tools, (because the glue started setting and fit was that tight) way more glue squeeze out then I intended to clean up, and anything else you could come up with!

But in the end of day I got it all worked out but wow what a pain!  So next time you’re not “feeling it” take a hint, it might not be worth it!

BTW as a side note. Dental tools are great for working with inlay but get them from a dentist. The 4 piece set they sell at Rockler are garbage! (Now that’s not a dig at Rockler, just a “impromptu review” of that particular product.)

Popularity: 32% [?]

After viewing lots of blogs, tweets, FB postings and the like I kinda got the feeling that  woodworkers are alot like people in what they call the “professional” field.

What I mean is that there seems to be an “Us and Them” type of feeling involving both hand tool and power tool woodworkers.  It kinds of reminds me of the old company rivalry of architects & engineers.  Both need each other but both despise working with the other.

Now I’m not saying woodworkers despise each other but it does seem we tend to drift to one side or the other.

With that being said I’ve been working on developing an idea/contest in where the woodworking community would bring both sides, if you will, of the craft together in order to learn from each other and allow each woodworker to grow in the craft.  This would coincide with expanding to share that knowledge with today’s youth and introduce them into the craft.

Where this idea/project goes I honestly do not know yet.  At this point it is completely in its  infancy stage.   What I do know is that the first step of that idea is getting a little feedback with this short survey.

So if you have a minute I’d appreciate it if you would click the link below and take the survey.  Also feel free to leave your comments on this idea and your interest in it.

Project Gabriel

Popularity: 26% [?]

This past week I ventured over to Glen Huey’s shop to use his jointer (mine is in dire need of blade sharpening) to make tapered legs for the federal card table I’m working on. The next day I was chewing the fat with another woodworker at work who asked how I did it with just a jointer.

After several drawings & step by step directions on the white board in my office he looked at me and said “I just can’t see it!” So I told him I’d go home an take a few step by step photos and that’s when the light bulb went off. I remembered that Popular Woodworking posted a video online of the very technique.

So we logged into the web and did a quick search for it so he could “see” it. After viewing Glen demonstrating the technique he looked at me with that “you have to to be kidding me” look. But before he could speak I said “yes, it’s that damn easy and works every time!”

I believe it was Troy Sexton who first came up with this method and shared it with Pop Wood but prior to learning it from Glen I can say I used each and every jig I could find to make this operation easier. It didn’t matter if it involved a tablesaw or a bandsaw it was a pain to set up and get done. But this, it’s super easy, accurate and CRAZY FAST!

So using the code provided by Pop Wood’s player I embedded the video of Glen demonstration the technique.

Give it try cause once you do you’ll use it every time you need to taper legs!

If you’re not a believer yet maybe you’ll enjoy this video of Orianthi featuring Steve Vai performing: “Highly Strung” instead?!? They’re both phenomenal guitar players!

Popularity: 36% [?]

While working on my federal table last weekend, I set my sites on inlaying the curved string on the apron. After several attempt at trying to make the radius buy misting the string and using a soldering iron (and breaking each and every string) I gave up.   I was licked and all was lost.

At this point I was seriously wondering why in the world I didn’t just go with three rectangles on my apron instead of getting fancy and laying out curved ends.

So I stomped into the house and started digging up all my books, magazines, printed internet articles, DVDs, VHSs anything do to with inlay methods of work and found – NOTHING!

That was until I sent a distress email to Glen & Chuck asking what in the world I could be doing wrong. (After all I had bent lots of stringing using an iron before.)

Then the suggestion came to think bigger!  So with that I traded in the soldering iron for a piece of pipe and torch.  And the following is a step by step process on how I was able to make the curved inlay.

Step 1: While soaking my inlay in hot water I put a piece of pipe, about the same size of the bend I want, into a vise and heat it using a torch.

Step 2: After the pipe is heated I take a piece of string and using a piece of flashing as a backer I set the middle of what is to become my curve on the pipe.

Step 3: Using constant downward pressure I slowly pull the string around the pipe. (You will hear sizzling at this point.)

Step 4: I hold the two sides together with one hand while rubbing the back of the flashing with my other. (Think of it as trying to rub out a crease. But be careful because the flashing will be hot!)

Step 5: Release the pressure and take a look at your curve. Make sure it doesn’t have any cracks or splits.  (If it does you either did step 3 too fast or the pipe has cooled down too much.)

Step 6: Cut it length and install it.

Once I completed this I went back through all my resources and I found at least 3 different places where this method was demonstrated.  (Why is it you can never find anything when you need it?)

Popularity: 56% [?]

This year on New Years Eve day I decided it was time to move the Federal Card Table I was working on along.  It had felt like forever since I last worked on it due to the holidays and having to get a second shot for tennis elbow.

After many long discussions about how to complete this with power tools (that would involve elaborate jigs, much set up time, etc..) I decided to break out my Steve Latta stringing tools I purchased a while back.  Armed with them (and 96 Rock playing on the radio) I set out for an afternoon of using nothing but hand tools.  (Those of you who know me, know this is a big step for me!)

Having already completed the layout work and gluing on my temporary backer blocks I started by setting up the radius cutter and plowing out the curved ends. (Below you can also see where I used a dental pick to help with the clean out.)

From here I set my straight cutter and simply connected the two half circles for each of the 3 sections.

I have to say even though I’m a power tool guy, I did have an enjoyable (and semi-quiet) day of woodworking in peace!  I might have to expand on this!!

Popularity: 100% [?]

Popularity: 28% [?]

Recently I’ve been working on a new Federal Card Table for my home.  While working on it I decided to use my Lie-Nielsen radius inlay cutter (based off Steve Latta’s design) to make my apron inlay circular vs rectangular.  (Photos of that to come)

So prior to just going hog wild on my apron itself I applied a piece of veneer on my apron cutoff and started playing around with the radius cutter.  After trying the layout a couple of times I was happy with the job the cutter did but boy I didn’t like the center point hole that was left behind.

After thinking a bit I overcame this by deciding to do all my layout work and mark my cross hairs in pencil on the apron.  After that I cut a few shims and marked a set of cross hairs on them and then broke out the hot glue gun to attached the shims to my apron making sure to align the cross hairs from the shim to the cross hairs on the apron.

Now I have a piece of wood that will receive the center point hole that I can remove with a little heat and have zero marks left behind!

Do you have a different way that you would have (or have) attacked this type of issue?  Is so share them in the comments below.

Popularity: 25% [?]

Got this one emailed to me today.

MEN’s TOOLS

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal  bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, “Oh, sh*t!”

CIRCULAR SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.  Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up  jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board  principle…. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your futurebecomes.

LOCKING PLYERS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads.  If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intensewelding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire.  Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out ofwhich you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood  projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut  good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the  trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; butcan also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans.  Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is  used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to theobject we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.  Especially useful for slicingwork clothes, but only while in use.

SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any tool that you grab and throw across the room while yelling,  “Son of a Bitch at the top of your lungs.  It is also, most often,  the next tool that you will need.

Popularity: 28% [?]